Welcome to the Hobby Greenhouse Association

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Comments: 23
  • #1

    eandbenterprises (Friday, 20 June 2014 11:02)

    Please let me know if there is a member that could offer me specific greenhouse advice for me in Oklahoma. Thanks.

  • #2

    Bill (Friday, 20 June 2014 15:20)

    This is a mobile device test.

  • #3

    Sue M (Tuesday, 07 October 2014 10:51)

    I'm in Oregon, so can't help an Oklahoma gardener...sorry.

    Any greenhouser have some tips on growing Embothrium up from seed? I can get them to readily germinate and get them to about 2inches THEN they start to wither and die. I know about not using any phosphorus and avoid that. Is there a particular soil they like and what kind of fertilizer to use...if any? I read they liked acid conditions, but I made it too acid and drove them into a magnesium deficiency. Cured that with magnesium sulfate and they sorta snapped out of that, but now have started yellowing again. Arrgghh

  • #4

    Bernie (Sunday, 19 October 2014 10:30)

    Oklahoma member are you still having a problem that you posted back in June? If so check out the fact sheets entitled"Before You Buy -Planning For Your Hobby Greenhouse on the site

  • #5

    Tom Eckert (Friday, 31 October 2014 09:22)

    I emailed Sue M some thoughts about her seeding problems and wanted to share them with the members. The biggest problem with seedlings is Damping Off Disease. When the seedlings emerge from their growing media this is a very critical time in their life. Too wet a soil and they turn yellow, droop and start dying. If you notice that knats have been fling around when you move the growing trays, that is a sure sign your growing media is too wet. You may have to start over since the growing media is now infested with knat eggs, best to trash it. Also use a very light spray when feeding your seedlings. If the fertilizer is too strong it will burn the seedlings and kill them. Better to use light fertilizing at each watering. It does take some trial and error but you will master it.

  • #6

    Chuck (Tuesday, 18 November 2014 11:52)

    Yesterday my wife and I visited a greenhouse dealer in Oregon searching for shade cloth for our 12x25 foot Quonset style greenhouse which has a 6 mil poly covering. Their recommendation for a “small” greenhouse was to paint the poly with the cheapest interior white house paint. They stated that painting would be more efficient than 40% shade cloth decreasing the temperature an additional 8 degrees F. They also reassured us that the paint would not harm the poly and would easily wash off in the fall. We did not buy the shade cloth deciding instead to research their claims. I would appreciate your opinion regarding shade cloth or painting. Thanks for your input.

  • #7

    Carol (Tuesday, 18 November 2014 12:14)

    What is the most cost efficient and effective insulation for a greenhouse which currently has a single layer 6 mil poly covering? A second poly covering creating an inflated double poly covering? Or clear bubble wrap (heavy duty with 1" wide and 1/2" deep bubbles) held up against the single poly covering using string between the greenhouse bows? Thanks.

  • #8

    Tom (Tuesday, 18 November 2014 13:22)

    I worked at a large commercial nursery that used the two layer of poly method for about eight greenhouses. The top layer was separated up by a small (about 2 inch diameter motor) squirrel cage fan running 24/7.I tried the bubble wrap method at home, some years ago, and it helped some but was a nuisance to rig and remove.

  • #9

    Bernie (Tuesday, 18 November 2014 16:57)

    How To Calculate Heat Requirements
    First check the heat requirements using the following formula . The double film with a motor to have complete insulated greenhouse has been around for years.
    : A X D X 1.1 = Btu’s. “A” is the total wall and roof surface area of your greenhouse. “D” is the difference between coldest outdoor winter temperature and the night temperature desired in your greenhouse. "Btu’s" is the heat requirement. Subtract 30% if greenhouse is insulated using double glazing or polyethylene liner. Subtract another 30% if it is a lean-to greenhouse on heated wall.

  • #10

    Paul Alaback (Tuesday, 09 December 2014 12:58)

    Excess humidity in winter. I have a well insulated greenhouse/sunroom in which I have been growing Mediterranean perennials and also veggies. Temps go 50-65 most of time. All is well except that on cloudy days & early in AM I can get lots of condensation near windows. I vent whenever it is sunny in afternoon which solves problem quickly. I am thinking about putting in some fans and also figuring out how dry I can let plants get, and maybe even a dehumidifier. Would like to know what other people do.

  • #11

    Tom Eckert (Wednesday, 10 December 2014 13:48)

    All greenhouses, large and small should have fans of the appropriate size as to move air around them in a gently circular motion if possible. Sometimes this motion is not possible but the movement of the air will greatly help prevent condensation not to mention making your plants grow better. The fans should not be so large that they blow over plants. If possible, purchase three speed fans which will give you the ability to try different air movement. The fans should be run 7 days a week 24 hours a day.
    The humidifier would work but they are energy hogs I think, where fans are very inexpensive to operate.

  • #12

    Tom Eckert (Wednesday, 10 December 2014 13:52)

    Does anybody have growing experience with the Tomatillo (the tomato that is not a tomato) but a Mexican cooking fruit? It apparently requires two of the plants for pollination since they are not very good at self pollinate like tomatoes.

  • #13

    Tom Eckert (Wednesday, 10 December 2014 14:59)

    How many members try to dry geranium plants for over-wintering them for spring growing? Tell us how you do it. There are apparently several ways.

  • #14

    Bernie (Tuesday, 16 December 2014 09:33)

    . Most of the time we grow geraniums from cuttings and they do very well, but growing them from seed is a new experience. Pelargonium x hortum is a complex hybrid largely derived from P. inquiuans and P. zonale. The Elite series by Park Seed is a great geranium for bedding or container culture. From seed, the geraniums flower in 13 weeks from sowing; plants at this stage are about 6 inches (15 cm) tall. The plant's overall height is about 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) tall. Even though the plants are considered annuals in zone 7, they are very hardy in zones 9-11

  • #15

    Diane (Saturday, 19 March 2016 20:57)

    Years ago in an older HGA magazine there was a homemade pest killer mentioned called "the concoction". I believe it had 409 or blue dawn and some other ingredients.
    Does anyone remember the recipe and did it work?

  • #16

    Isadora Liu (Tuesday, 22 November 2016 01:14)

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    Our company was established by Weifang Import and Export Enterprises Federation, China. We are focusing on providing the enterprises with professional overseas marketing skill, teaching and helping them to open and promote overseas market.

    As far as I know, your company is in the greenhouse field. Please kindly let me recommend you our products for greenhouse, such as the frame, films, etc. We can also supply you the whole solution.

    Sincerely hope you are interested in this business, and looking forward to your earliest reply.

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    Shandong Zhiyan Group Work Win Co., Ltd
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  • #17

    Elljgl (Friday, 02 November 2018 07:17)

    I live in MD and have built a Florian Sierra greenhouse. It is equipped with a humidifier. I grow orchids and need humidity. I have been told the exterior humidifier must be winterized, not to be used in the winter. What is the solution to maintaining 60% humidity?

  • #18

    Denny Van Dorn (Monday, 14 January 2019 22:54)

    I saw in an earlier blog post about how to apply for a chapter. Can I please have the same information sent to me?

  • #19

    Thomas Eckert (Sunday, 12 May 2019 16:54)

    Any person wishing to start a new HGA Chapter in their area please email me for our information. I have an informative PDF I can email containing suggestions for starting a new chapter. The HGA would like to see more chapters former.

  • #20

    Thomas Eckert (Sunday, 12 May 2019 16:56)

    An addition to the above note my email address is tjghg@verizon.net

  • #21

    Janet Buckingham (Thursday, 14 January 2021 19:20)

    We are in the middle of construction of our stand-alone greenhouse in San Antonio, Texas. It is 300 ft from our house. We are looking for a Wireless Thermo-Hygrometer that will reach that far. We already tried the Ambient Weather WS-2801A Advanced Wireless Color Forecast Station w/Temperature, Humidity, Barometer and although it says it can reach 300ft, it was not successful. Any advice?

  • #22

    John Garth (Wednesday, 20 January 2021 20:20)

    I'm new here and was wondering if there is an Illinois chapter?

  • #23

    Sid (Wednesday, 29 December 2021 17:44)

    Please Help! We are looking for advice before purchasing our first Greenhouse...
    We just joined the HGA so that we could hopefully connect with others that have experience in Greenhouses. We have read through the 8 page article on the HGA website titled "Before you Buy or Build-Planning for your Hobby Greenhouse"...a great article but we're hoping for some more in-depth insight from experienced owners. Any advice or suggestions would be most welcome!

    We live in Asheville, North Carolina and are considering a kit from BC Greenhouse; 16' x 20' free-standing "warm" greenhouse; double glass sidewalls and 5 wall poly roof. We are also putting in a raised bed vegetable garden adjacent to the greenhouse. Our primary interest is in growing vegetables and herbs. We would like to be able to over-winter citrus and other tender plants. We plan to do some flowers/shrubs etc in the future.

    *Based on your experiences, what would you do differently if you were just installing a greenhouse today?

    * What kind of vegetables can we expect to be able to grow in the winter months inside the greenhouse?

    *Any advice for benches inside the greenhouse? What materials work best?

    *For seed germination & propagation, what type of supplemental lighting is best?

    *Any advice for heating/cooling? One greenhouse owner I spoke with said he was having trouble during the "shoulder seasons" when daytime temps were high but it cooled off quickly in the evening. The problem he was having was that the "automatic solar hinges" (wax filled tubes) for the roof vents were not closing rapidly enough and the thermostat that controls his LP heater was calling for heat before the roof vents closed, causing the LP heater to blow hot air that was being exhausted out of the roof vents...for hours$$$
    He was advised to disconnect the solar hinges in the winter (makes sense) but wouldn't it be better if one thermostat controlled the function of all vents and the heater? Any suggestions??

    *Anybody have a greenhouse that we could visit in or near Asheville, NC?

    *Any general or specific advice that anyone has to offer would be greatly appreciated!
    Thanks for your help..! ;-)